Efficacy testing: anti-wrinkle

Skin ageing

Skin ageing is a natural process, which occurs due to a combination of external (extrinsic) and internal (intrinsic) factors. Both factors lead to a loss of structural integrity of the skin and its function. The understanding of cell ageing mechanisms and the effects of different factors on the skin can help determinate ways to influence premature skin ageing and help reduce the visible signs of skin ageing.

Extrinsic skin ageing is a result of a combination of environmental factors, such as exposure to sunlight, pollution and lifestyle (smoking, diet, skincare etc.). Powerful effects of the UV light on the skin are often referred to as photo-ageing. Unlike intrinsic ageing, extrinsic skin ageing can be alleviated and reduced to a certain degree.

Intrinsic (chronologic) skin ageing is a genetically determined process, which makes it beyond our control. It is an inevitable process, which affects every individual but at variable genetically determined rates. Hormonal changes, such as decreased levels of estrogen, are another intrinsic factor that greatly affects skin ageing.

The underlying cause of extrinsic skin ageing is oxidative stress. Skin's ability to fight oxidative stress decreases over time, which leads to skin damage. Oxidative stress is mainly caused by exposure to UV light, which generates reactive oxygen species (ROS) or better known as free radicals. The latter cause premature ageing by breaking down components of the extracellular matrix, such as hyaluronic acid, elastin and collagen fibres, as well as lead to DNA damage. Prolonged UV exposure also promotes inflammatory processes and leads to immunosuppression.

Sings of skin ageing

General signs of skin ageing include fine lines and wrinkles, skin sagging due to loss of volume and loss of elasticity accompanied with deep wrinkles.

Intrinsic and extrinsic skin ageing have different phenotypes. Intrinsically aged skin is characterized by smooth, unblemished, dry and paler skin with fine wrinkles and loss of elasticity. Skin affected by extrinsic factors and photoaged skin is determined by deep wrinkles, uneven pigmentation, rough texture and sever loss of elasticity and firmness.

Claims related to skin ageing

Anti-ageing

Anti-wrinkle

Rejuvenating

Firming

External genital organs

Lifting

Smoothing

Cosmetics testing

See our results

Cosmetics testing
Cosmetics testing

Before product application

Cosmetics testing

After 6 week treatment

Cosmetics testing

Wrinkle analysis

Measurement principles and instruments

Measurements are performed using Callegari 1930 Company - Soft Plus device, which is an instrument designed to assess a variety of skin parameters.

Efficacy testing combines the use of a camera with the sensors for depth analysis of skin ageing.

Measurements include:

Evaluation of skin pigmentation (presence and size of dark spots)

Evaluation of depth and degree of wrinkles

Evaluation of skin elasticity/firmness

Evaluation of skin hydration

By measuring different skin parameters, we can evaluate and screen for the most important signs of skin ageing. We monitor the before and after treatment and perform 3D analysis of wrinkles. Measurements include the length, width and depth of each wrinkle.

Efficacy testing protocol is prepared for each product individually with close cooperation with the sponsor. Based on the claims, usage regime and efficacy expectations, we prepare a protocol that is suitable for the type of product and can confirm product efficacy. The studies can be performed over a different time period (from a few days to several weeks or months) depending on the claim and type of measurement.

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