Efficacy testing: anti-ageing

Skin ageing

Skin ageing is a natural process, which occurs due to a combination of external (extrinsic) and internal (intrinsic) factors. Both factors lead to a loss of structural integrity of the skin and its function. The understanding of cell ageing mechanisms and the effects of different factors on the skin can help determinate ways to influence premature skin ageing and help reduce the visible signs of skin ageing.

Extrinsic skin ageing is a result of a combination of environmental factors, such as exposure to sunlight, pollution and lifestyle (smoking, diet, skincare etc.). Powerful effects of the UV light on the skin are often referred to as photo-ageing. Unlike intrinsic ageing, extrinsic skin ageing can be alleviated and reduced to a certain degree.

Intrinsic (chronologic) skin ageing is a genetically determined process, which makes it beyond our control. It is an inevitable process, which affects every individual but at variable genetically determined rates. Hormonal changes, such as decreased levels of estrogen, are another intrinsic factor that greatly affects skin ageing.

The underlying cause of extrinsic skin ageing is oxidative stress. Skin's ability to fight oxidative stress decreases over time, which leads to skin damage. Oxidative stress is mainly caused by exposure to UV light, which generates reactive oxygen species (ROS) or better known as free radicals. The latter cause premature ageing by breaking down components of the extracellular matrix, such as hyaluronic acid, elastin and collagen fibres, as well as lead to DNA damage. Prolonged UV exposure also promotes inflammatory processes and leads to immunosuppression.

Signs of skin ageing

General signs of skin ageing include fine lines and wrinkles, skin sagging due to loss of volume and loss of elasticity accompanied with deep wrinkles.

Intrinsic and extrinsic skin ageing have different phenotypes. Intrinsically aged skin is characterized by smooth, unblemished, dry and paler skin with fine wrinkles and loss of elasticity. Skin affected by extrinsic factors and photoaged skin is determined by deep wrinkles, uneven pigmentation, rough texture and sever loss of elasticity and firmness.

Claims related to skin ageing

Anti-ageing

Rejuvenating

Revitalizing

Cosmetics testing
Cosmetics testingCosmetics testing

Measurement principles and instruments

To prove anti-aging claims, we measure the following parameters using the following instruments:

Evaluation of skin elasticity/firmness

  • Cutometer (CK Electronics)

  • Demaflex / Dermalab (Cortex Technologies)

  • Callegari SoftPlus (Callegari)

Evaluation of skin hydration

  • CorneometerĀ® (Courage + Khazaka Electronic)

  • Dermalab (Cortex Technologies)

  • Callegari SoftPlus (Callegari)

Evaluation of dept and degree of wrinkles with microcamera

  • Visioscan VC 20plus (Courage + Khazaka Electronic)

  • Cortex Dino-Lite (Cortex Technologies)

  • Microcamera SoftPlus (Callegari)

See our results

Microcamera SoftPlus - Callegari

Cosmetics testing

Before product application

Cosmetics testing

After 4 week treatment

EVE M camera analysis

Cosmetics testing

Before product application

Cosmetics testing

After 4 week treatment

Efficacy testing protocol is prepared for each product individually with close cooperation with the sponsor. Based on the claims, usage regime and efficacy expectations, we prepare a protocol that is suitable for the type of product and can confirm product efficacy. The studies can be performed over a different time period (from a few days to several weeks or months) depending on the claim and type of measurement.

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